Tuesday, 28 February 2012

Natural Weed Killers


The easiest weed control products to use (and the least expensive) are the ones you already have on hand in your kitchen. The one draw back with organic weed killers is that they're not designed to protect plants like certain store-bought weed killers, so be careful to sidestep the plants you want to keep alive when applying these chemical-free weed control solutions.
Vinegar works against pesky weeds but may require multiple applications to do the trick. It works better with the help of some sun so be sure the forecast doesn't call for rain as the vinegar needs some time to set in.

Cornmeal prevents weed seeds from germinating when sprinkled on the soil. It's best to wait until after your seeds sprout to make sure the cornmeal doesn't harm your new plants. In addition to its weed control properties, cornmeal attracts worms which loosen up the soil.

Boiling water is probably the simplest thing to use, but make sure not to douse your plants - or burn yourself.

Salt is another simple solution but needs to be applied carefully because salt can poison the soil. A spoonful is all that's needed to kill dandelions and other similar weeds but it's best restricted to gravel areas and those not intended for plants. Salt can kill plant roots and important organisms like fungi and earthworms. So target its application and use sparingly to areas where runoff won't kill your other plants. 



Creating a New Lawn


Now is the time to turn that old dry patch in the back yard into a beautiful, green lawn.
There are a number of steps you need to take and one thing to always remember is what water restrictions you will have in your region this summer. Once you have watering information, choose grass seed or sod that will do well with your watering restrictions because no one wants to see their lawn turn into a dusty, lumpy, yellow wasteland.

Check out the steps below to get you started.

1.  Check for low spots and drainage problems. Remove all debris, wood, tones, plaster, etc. Spray hardy weeds and grasses with Roundup or a natural weed killer.
2.  Add any necessary soil amendments: peat, sand, topsoil, lime, turface, etc. as needed and work in well.
3.  When soil is moderately dry, rototill (you can rent a rototiller) to a 6-8" depth and rake level with small clods from grape to golf ball size. A "pebbly" surface is best.
4.  Apply seed starter fertilizer and lime. Water area thoroughly. Check for low spots.
5.  When dry, rake seedbed level to create a gradual slope away from the house to prevent drainage problems
6.  Apply seed witha "whirlwind" type seed spreader. Rake lightly to cover seed to a depth of 1/4 inch.
7.  Lightly roll the entire surface to firm the seedbed (you can rent a roller).
8.  Water lightly to 1/4 inch. Thereafter, water daily but lightly so the soil surface remains damp.
9.  After 2 weeks, reseed bare spots and wash outs.
10.  When the seedlings reach a height of 2-3 inches, mow to a height of 1 1/2 inches with a sharp mower when grass is dry.

To maintain a high quality turf, annually overseed the lawn at a rate of 8 -10 lb. of new seed per 1,000 sq. ft.

Of course you can always simply prepare the area following the steps above and purchase sod. Sod is much more expensive but has the added bonus of instant gratification. 

Saturday, 25 February 2012

Drought Tolerant Gardening

Many people do not realize that not all California native plants are drought tolerant. California is geographically diverse: ranging from a foggy coast to the hot central plains, and foothills that climb up into the majestic Sierra Nevada Mountains, something we know very well in the SF Bay area. This diversity is closely reflected in the native plants that have successfully adapted to their environment. 


To choose California native plants for your location, there are climatic zone maps published by the USDA that are based on average minimum temperatures. Sunset magazine has published its own climatic zone maps. The Sunset zones use multiple factors and are therefore rather more useful than the USDA zone maps. Since many nurseries use the USDA zone on their plant descriptions, you need to be aware of both systems.


For additional information on landscaping with California native plants and creating a drought tolerant garden, check out California Native Landscape Designs.



Friday, 24 February 2012

Container Gardening

So you want to have a garden but maybe live in a condo, apartment or other housing with out an outside space. Or you may simply want to start off with a small, easy to manage garden. If this sounds like you then container gardening may be just the thing.

A window sill, a patio, a balcony or a doorstep will provide ample space for a productive mini-garden. Problems with soilborne diseases or poor soil conditions can be easily overcome by switching to a container garden and pest management is easier. Remember to pick plants that will do well with the amount of sun they will get every day. Always remember to check on how dry the soil is getting as containers tend to dry out much faster and you can check into using a watering ball to ensure things don't dry up and die or if you will be away for a few days.

Check out this site for more information and great container gardening tips:
Container Gardens

Wednesday, 22 February 2012

What to Plant...


So you have your garden area all ready and want to start planting. If the weather is good you may want to start with seeds but for beginners it may be easier to purchase some bedding out plants.

One VERY important thing to remember no matter what you choose is to water on a regular basis or all your hard work will be for nothing.

Be sure to check with your local municipality in regards to watering as there may be water restrictions in place and you may have specific days and times that you can water. Setting an irrigation system up on a timer works wonders in this regard and that you you never forget to water.

1. Radishes. Radishes do well even in not-so-great garden soil and are ready to harvest in only a few weeks. 

2. Salad greens. Lettuce, spinach, arugula...pick your favorite, or try a mix. Plant the seeds in spring and fall, and you can pick salads almost year-round.

3. Green beans. Easy to grow and prolific. Start with seeds or plants after all danger of frost has passed.

4. Onions. Start with small plants, and if they do well, you can harvest bulb onions or eat the greens.

5. Strawberries. Perfectly ripe strawberries are unbelievably sweet, and the plants are surprisingly hardy. Buy bare-root plants in early spring. Put this perennial in a sunny spot and keep it well weeded or grow in a pot.

6. Peppers. Both hot peppers and bell peppers are easy to grow especially in our California sun. Start with plants and let peppers from the same plant ripen for different lengths of time to get a range of colors and flavors.

7. Bush zucchini. This squash won't take up as much room in your garden as many other types, and it’s very prolific. You won't need more than a few plants for a bumper crop.

8. Tomatoes. Nothing tastes as wonderful as a homegrown tomato, and it’s hard to go wrong when you start with strong plants. 

9. Basil or Cilantro. Fresh herbs are very tasty and basil is a good choice because it’s a nice complement to tomatoes. Basil is easy to grow from seeds or from transplants.

10. Potatoes. Its hard to go wrong with potatoes as hey are one of the most versatile veggies out there and very hardy.

And before you know it you have all the ingredients for fresh salsa!

Monday, 20 February 2012

Your First Garden


The health benefits of eating fresh vegetables is well known and the reward of eating fresh vegetables that you grew is amazing, not to mention you’ll save some money at the store.
For your first garden think small. A plot 8' X 10' is a great starter size and you can always expand later. Gardens take work and after the initial preparation and planting you will need to hoe, weed, water and fertilize on a regular basis. You cannot simply plant the garden and think that mother nature will do the rest, that’s your job!
Choose a location that receives as much sun as possible throughout the day. If you are removing a section of lawn(sod), you can rent a tiller or borrow one from a friend or neighbor for this task. When the top layer has been well loosened, work the soil up sod and all. You can leave the sod if you work it really well but you may also want to simply remove it and fill the void with topsoil.
If your soil is sandy or has a high clay content it will be worth amending the dirt with topsoil or compost to get your plants off on the right foot. If you are not sure what type of soil you have you can take  a handful to your local nursery and check with them. All soil amendment products can be bought in plastic bags so don’t worry that you will need to purchase an entire truckload of dirt. When you start planting a sprinkle of fish fertilizer in the hole will give your new plants a good boost and make them happy.
If you have a bad back and bending over a lot is out of the question, you can make a raised garden bed out of timbers or purchase easy to assemble plastic bed forms. Then fill the bed with good topsoil and get ready to plant.
If you make the decision to plant a garden, be sure to buy good quality seeds or bedding out plants. With bedding out plants check for bugs, spots, broken leaves etc. and go for healthy looking plants.
Easy to grow crops include onions, peas, beets, rutabaga, zucchini squash and these can also be planted early. Tomatoes and peppers need to be started from seed indoors about 8 weeks prior to planting time or purchased as transplants. Whether you use seeds or bedding out plants, be sure to read (and save) the instructions that come with them. Make a note of the amount of sun, water, space and shelter each plant will need. And to ensure success, plant by the expected last frost dates, not the weather.
Animals may take a shine to your new garden and depending on here you live, rabbits, geese and deer can be a problem. For a small garden a wire mesh surround works well to keep unwanted guests from nibbling on your bounty.
Be on the lookout for bugs! If you see evidence of chewing on plants, especially things like cabbage don't wait to save all your hard work. Identify the insect causing the damage (your local nursery can help you if you are not sure) and choose an insecticide that will control that specific insect. Proper spacing, weeding and fertilizing is a good way to prevent disease and insect infestation without having to resort to insecticides. There are also many new, natural insecticides available so be sure to ask at the nursery.
When it comes to fertilizer, the easiest to use is a granular or water soluble fertilizer to feed your hungry plants. A 15-15-15 or 20-20-20 fertilizer is a good all purpose fertilizer which will provide equal parts nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium and some of the minor nutrients that plants need.
Soon, it will be time to harvest your garden and be sure to do so when ripe. Enjoy your bounty knowing that YOU created this beautiful fare.

Sunday, 19 February 2012

Horticultural Horoscopes

Forget 1 January. For gardeners, the year is about to begin. 
The spring equinox is almost upon us and, as the days lengthen, the adrenaline flows. Foretelling the gardening year ahead and making planting plans are closely linked. While modern horoscopes may not offer much help, in old astrology books horticulture was prominent, and each star sign had its associated plants.


See the entire article here and check out your sun sign!
Gardening Horoscopes

Saturday, 18 February 2012

Alameda Home & Garden Show

The Alameda Home & Garden Show is on today through Monday.
Take some time to go check out everything that is new this year for your home, yard and garden.

The show is on at the Alameda County Fairgrounds and there is a $2.00 admission ticket on their website at http://www.capitalshowcase.com/alameda.html

Beautiful Alameda

Spring is coming and you're itching to get in the garden.
Where to start, where to start....


Well one thing for sure is that you do not want to waste your money by purchasing plants that look beautiful at the nursery but will not survive where you live. So the first step is to check the tag that comes with the plant, or ask nursery staff, and compare that against the 'zone and hardiness' chart. Happy planting!